What is Argentina like in 2024? Should you still visit?

Argentina is an absolutely amazing country, and that’s why I’ve come back for the third year in a row. And I have no regrets, even though some things have changed (prices, mainly). To be honest, I had some fleeting reservations about coming back after Javier Milei was elected in December 2023, because nobody could quite predict the effects of all the radical changes he was promising. But in the end, I felt my concern was probably overblown, and I still believe that, after being back for a couple months.

Now, I am not going to discuss my personal opinion of Milei or his policies, because it’s not my place – I’m not a citizen or even a resident of Argentina, just a long-term tourist. As an outsider, I only have a superficial understanding of Argentina’s long-entrenched economic issues. It’s clear there was never going to be an easy or painless solution for the current crisis, and I only wish for the best for the Argentine people. Here I will primarily focus on logistics for people considering a visit or move, and talk about the atmosphere as I see it. Also, I will mostly speak about what I have observed and what has changed in Buenos Aires, since that is where I spend the most time by far. I was also in Mendoza for a month, but I don’t have anything to compare it to since it was my first visit to that city.

The rollercoaster of prices in Argentina

Prior to 2024, Buenos Aires was very much a “hot” destination for digital nomads and tourists due to the highly favorable “blue” or unofficial exchange rate from US dollars to Argentine pesos. High inflation was already a thing, but prices for most daily expenses like food and drink were very affordable. (Just to be clear, this means affordable for those with US dollars to exchange – tourists, nomads, locals who earn or have savings in USD. For millions of other locals who earn in pesos, it was already expensive.) Other consumer goods – clothing, electronics, anything imported were already pricey here and have only become more expensive as time goes on.

When Milei took office 7 months ago, he devalued the peso by almost 50% and made drastic cuts to public spending. Inflation, which was skyrocketing to record levels, has appeared to calm down and even level off. But prices are still quite high for the average Argentinian. 

It’s very hard to speak about prices here in concrete terms because they are always changing, and vary enormously. I’ve paid anywhere from 1000 to 1800 pesos for 6 eggs. A 300 gram tub of my favorite yogurt might be 1700 pesos at one grocery store, 1800 at another store. Then you buy it again 2 weeks later, and that tub could be 2400 pesos (true story). I’ve seen a bag of coffee jump up 2000 pesos almost overnight. Coffee in particular has become very expensive here. I was glad that I brought a couple bags with me from Chile, because I had seen some online comments about it. Imported food items overall seem to have been the most drastically affected, with many items costing double what I remember them costing last year. It’s very noticeable in the Barrio Chino grocery stores – the best place to go in Buenos Aires for any remotely “exotic” or international food items. That bottle of Sriracha is going to cost dearly now.

I was prepared for this, but I can also happily report that a lot of staples are still pretty affordable – fresh produce, rice, pasta, etc. I have been able to keep my grocery budget around $50 or less per week. Not bad, right? I will say that I tend to cook simple, frugal meals no matter where I am. Chili, stirfries, omelettes, pasta dishes,  soups. Someone who buys a lot of prepared foods, alcohol, and eats steak or seafood regularly will be spending quite a bit more. Eating out at restaurants has gone up – expect to spend maybe $8-10 for a casual lunch, $12-20 for an average dinner. But this can vary wildly depending on the type of food and the neighborhood.

Making sense of the exchange rates in Argentina

It’s useless to talk about prices in pesos without discussing exchange rates, of course. And it’s hard to talk about exchange rates because there are many, and again, they change all the time. When I arrived back in Argentina in early May, the blue dollar (informal) exchange rate was hovering close to the official exchange rate, a bit over 1000 pesos to 1 USD. Then a couple weeks later, the blue dollar started rising, and as of today you can get 1388 pesos per dollar through Western Union. In other words, a dollar will get you a third more pesos than it did last month. And if inflation is truly slowing down, it means things are becoming more affordable again for anyone bringing USD.

But this is Argentina, where the only constant in life is change – so who really knows what the situation will be in a few more months? I also want to touch upon the price of accommodation. I have not seen any big increase in the price of Airbnbs over the past couple years. There are plenty of rentals for studio apartments which I would consider quite decent under $600 a month, even a few under $500 for someone who is less picky than me with regard to location and amenities. So even considering inflation in food and transport prices, someone who lives fairly modestly while still enjoying a few meals out could still get by on $1000 for a month. 

For someone who likes to “flex,” go out every night, and live lavishly, sure, it’s going to cost more than it used to. But I would say that the value for money is still incredible here. Besides being just a beautiful and vibrant city, Buenos Aires offers endless things to do which are often free or very low cost. Free concerts, cultural centers with free exhibitions, activities, etc. Many museums are free every day, some are free or half price on Wednesdays. The Ecoparque and Jardin Botanico are free. Take advantage of the city’s incredible theatre scene – tickets to shows here still cost a fraction of what you would pay for a show in London or New York. You can also just spend a day chilling in a park drinking mate, topped up with free hot water. What is more Argentinian than that?

Is it safe to travel to Argentina now?

There’s no sugarcoating the fact that a lot of people here are struggling financially, and the poverty level has been increasing throughout the economic crisis. When social programs are cut and inflation has gone unchecked for so long, it absolutely affects the most vulnerable members of society. You will see people sleeping rough (what is referred to here as “Personas en situación de calle”). You will have people approach you in cafes trying to sell you items. Petty theft does occur. But these are things that happen in all large cities. I still feel much safer here than I did in many cities in the US. Of course, you should have street smarts and not invite unnecessary risk by flashing around expensive Iphones or jewelry, don’t wander alone late at night especially in unfamiliar areas, and do not enter villas (slums) such as the famous Villa 31 next to Retiro train station.

Political protests have always been a regular occurrence here. If you pass through the Plaza de Mayo on a weekday, you will probably have a 50/50 chance of seeing a protest. These rarely cause any disturbance and are simply a part of the culture. This June, there was a larger protest against Milei’s “Ley Bases” reform bill that was a bit more intense, with images of a burning car and a naked man who scaled a monument in front of the Congress building making the news. But I only knew about it from the media – Buenos Aires is a huge city, and the small areas where protests take place (in front of governmental buildings) are usually easily be avoided. Unless things take a sharp turn for the worse, social unrest is not something you need to worry about. There have been a few general strikes as well. While it’s pretty unlikely that one will occur and cause disruption to your visit, it’s always smart to have travel insurance and book tickets that can be refunded or exchanged in case of force majeure. I have had such an experience when I wanted to travel to Ecuador a couple years ago and had to change my plans due to a countrywide Paro. It was somewhat inconvenient as a traveler, but it’s a much bigger pain for local people whose livelihoods are at stake.

The fact is that social unrest can happen in almost any country. It happens in the US, in Europe, and yes, in South America. Argentina is a country with decades of economic issues that are not going to be solved any time soon. And while it’s very much a struggle for most of the population, they are very resilient and live for the day, which I love. They still go out, socialize, work hard, play hard. Buenos Aires feels incredibly vibrant no matter what. And I hope it stays that way.