What are the best areas to live in Buenos Aires? Ranking every neighborhood where I have stayed.
I’ve been coming to Buenos Aires for the past 3 years, and have stayed in a whopping 9 different Airbnbs in different areas of the city. In other words, I changed Airbnbs every month. You might wonder why – wouldn’t it make more sense to stay in one place for 2 or 3 months instead of constantly moving? There are certainly benefits to staying put if you know exactly where you want to be, and want to feel more settled for awhile. I decided to move every month for a few reasons.
The first reason is because I really want to get to know as many areas of this massive city as possible, and I have realized that the neighborhood where you stay – as well as the accommodation itself – has a profound influence on your experience. There’s a world of difference between the atmosphere in San Telmo vs. Belgrano.
Secondly, the longer period of time you are looking to rent an Airbnb, the more it limits your options, since a place can be booked for just one night in the timespan you are searching for and thus will be completely unavailable. This is not such a big deal if you are booking months ahead, but I don’t want to be locked into such a commitment. One month at a time allows for more flexibility. Also, the only time I have ever booked a place for two months in all of my time as a nomad, it turned out to be pretty horrible and I couldn’t wait to leave. That was in Mexico right when I started traveling. Over time, I learned how to choose better apartments on Airbnb, but it still seems like there is always at least one aspect that is mildly annoying. For example, a shower with weak water pressure, an upstairs neighbor who sounds like they are dropping bowling balls on the floor every day… you get the idea.
Thirdly, I just really enjoy the process of searching for my next temporary home and always having something new to look forward to. For me, that’s part of the whole attraction to nomad life. Maybe the day will come when I am tired of moving around and I decide to permanently plant roots in Buenos Aires. By then, I will have a pretty good idea of my favorite areas.
So without further ado, starting with the first place I stayed in 2022:
Villa Crespo, more or less across from the Movistar Arena. This area of Villa Crespo on the south side of Avenida Corrientes is not particularly beautiful, but it was fine. Close to the Dorrego Subte station and Villa Crespo rail station, a short walk from a lively park (Parque de Los Andes). And once you cross over Ave. Corrientes, you find yourself in the more gentrified part of Villa Crespo which basically feels like an extension of Palermo, with hipster coffee shops, bars, and cool street art. I never felt unsafe here. The only minor complaint I would have is that the closest supermarkets were all pretty basic and a little…depressing? However, there was a nice big Jumbo supermarket 2 stops away on the metro. Would I live in this area again? Yes I would, if the price and the apartment were right. It’s on the periphery of a very cool neighborhood and decently well connected to the rest of the city.
Apartment #2 was in Retiro bordering on the Microcentro. Just steps away from 9beautiful Plaza General San Martin and a few blocks from Florida Street. I was still getting to know the city back then, so on the one hand it was convenient for downtown exploring, but at night the area is a bit deserted and felt a little sketchy. Some streets are a bit dirty, and rough sleepers are a common sight. I never had any issues there, but it’s definitely an area where you wouldn’t want to wander around alone late at night (especially closer to Retiro train station). There is a pretty decent Disco supermarket and various smaller grocery store options. Would I live in this area again? I don’t think so. But I still really enjoy visiting during the daytime because of all the beautiful architecture, the lovely park and the bustling Microcentro.
Apartment #3 was in Villa Urquiza, a few blocks from the last station on the red Subte line, Juan Manuel de Rosas and Urquiza rail station. This is a pretty solidly middle class area, a little more family oriented than some of the more central neighborhoods, and it feels less congested than areas like Belgrano or Recoleta. There are still plenty of shops, cafes, and other essential businesses. Similar to Villa Crespo, I wasn’t a fan of the supermarkets in the immediate area, but it was 3 Subte stops away from Jumbo. Villa Urquiza is not the trendiest or most vibrant part of BA, but there’s no shortage of specialty coffee shops here – you are still in civilization. And there’s one quite hipster-y area around the streets Donado and Holmberg (DoHo) which is definitely buzzing with an array of bars, restaurants, and cafes. Villa Urquiza feels very safe, especially once you get a couple blocks away from the train and Subte stations where there may be some questionable people hanging around. Would I live here again? Probably yes, although it felt just a little bit far away from the “action,” and slightly boring to wander around. But it could be a great spot for someone who prefers not to be in the busier areas of the city.
Apartment #4 was in Chacarita a few blocks away from the Federico Lacroze train station and Subte stop, and close to the neighborhood of Colegiales. This is a great little neighborhood, in my opinion. It feels up and coming, with a lot of tree-lined streets, chill cafes, and cool street art. It reminds me a lot of Berlin when I lived there in the 2000s, in particular areas like Kreuzberg. I’m particularly fond of the area around Plaza Mafalda – a great park for kids, with an amazing antique mall/flea market (Mercado de Las Pulgas) across the street. There’s also a pretty nice Vea supermarket just a couple blocks away. The area directly around Lacroze station is somewhat rough around the edges, and just north of the train station is a villa (slum) which I accidentally walked through without knowing. To be fair, during the day it didn’t seem bad at all, and as long as you mind your own business and don’t have your camera whipped out, you will most likely not draw any attention. But it’s always good to be aware and alert. On the other side of Corrientes is the eponymous Chacarita cemetery, which is definitely worth a visit. Unlike Recoleta, this is free for everyone, large and uncrowded, with some beautiful and notable graves like Carlos Gardel and Jorge Newbury. Would I live here again? Yes, definitely. Even though I really love a bit of urban “hustle and bustle,” there’s enough going on here. It’s a great, calmer alternative to the more popular neighborhoods without being too staid and boring.
Apartment #5 was in Almagro near the border with Villa Crespo, near Angel Gallardo Subte station. Almagro is an area that still feels somewhat old school, mostly in a good way. Some parts feel a bit stagnant, rather than charmingly retro in the way that San Telmo might, for example. But it’s also unpretentious, not overly touristy or full of hipsters. Nearby is the excellent (though busy) Parque Centenario, where you can find a weekend flea market, regular free concerts at the amphitheater, a natural history museum, secondhand booksellers, and more. This area of town has a couple of Jumbo supermarkets in addition to loads of fruiterias, carnicerias, etc. Going slightly north into Villa Crespo, there’s a few blocks full of outlet shopping. This being Argentina, I can’t say whether the prices are all that different from any other stores, but it’s still a nice area to walk around. Would I live here again? Probably, although it wouldn’t be one of my top picks. It seemed a little noisier than other areas to me, and it sticks in my memory as having more dog poop on the streets than other neighborhoods. But to be fair, you can encounter dog poop pretty much anywhere in BA if you’re unlucky.
Apartment #6 was on the border of Colegiales and Belgrano, near Jose Hernandez Subte stop. If I were to pick one area I like the most for long-term living, it’s probably Belgrano. I love the balance of urban “hustle and bustle” along with pleasant green spaces, and having the Barrio Chino close by is ideal for me since it’s the best place in BA to shop for any “exotic” ingredients. You have a mix of modern highrises along with beautiful eclectic architecture, a metric f-ton of coffee shops, endless food options, and it’s not far from the Belgrano train station in case you want to go to San Isidro, Tigre or other northern areas. Sometimes it can be annoyingly busy and crowded (I would try to avoid Barrio Chino on a weekend unless it’s early morning, but that’s just me). But that’s the tradeoff that comes with a vibrant area. Would I live here again? Most definitely.
Apartment #7 was in Montserrat, a few blocks away from San Telmo, near Independencia Subte station. This station is located on Avenida 9 de Julio and next to UADE University, so it’s a very busy area with crowds of students coming and going all day. The best thing about living here was the proximity to San Telmo. It’s possible to walk to Puerto Madero or Avenida de Mayo as well. You can do all your basic shopping here, but there isn’t a really good full service supermarket in the near vicinity. It could feel slightly sketchy late at night, but I never felt unsafe. Would I live here again? No. It was fine for a short time, but there are too many other neighborhoods that offer more, in my opinion.
Apartment #8 was in Nunez, just north of the Barrio Chino and on the periphery of Belgrano. I like this area very much since it hits the sweet spot of convenience and vibrance. As someone who does a lot of cooking, it’s great to have the Barrio Chino close by where you can find so many things not normally found in Argentine supermarkets. There was also a decent large Carrefour a couple blocks away, some excellent coffee shops, and a nice plaza full of dogs and kids. Nunez reminds me a bit of Villa Urquiza in that it feels family friendly and a little bit quiet – but not too quiet. Another plus of this area is access to the train line that goes to the Zona Norte – towns like Vicente Lopez, San Isidro, and Tigre, which are great for a day trip when you need a break from the busy city. Would I live here again? Absolutely, it’s one of my favorite areas.
Apartment #9 is in Recoleta bordering Balvanera, near Pueyrredon Subte station. This is also a very strategic and vibrant location as you have access to two Subte lines, and there is plenty you can access on foot. While this isn’t the trendiest area, there’s a ton of variety and a real cosmopolitan feel. Within a few blocks you can find Venezuelan bakeries, kosher cafes, vegan shops, specialty coffee, Indian, Peruvian, Japanese, Bolivian food…you get the idea. This, to me, is what city living is all about. Walk a bit further into Balvanera and you will find the huge Abasto shopping center with some very cool architecture; Casa Museo Carlos Gardel, the house-museum of the legendary tango singer, on a street full of beautiful fileteado-painted buildings, and a lot of Gardel-themed street art nearby. It’s also just a few stops away (or longish walk) to Avenida Corrientes, El Ateneo Splendid bookstore, Recoleta Cemetery and much more. Would I live here again? Yes, definitely. It is a bustling area, which is not for everyone, but you have everything you need.
In summary: There is no “one size fits all” neighborhood. Everyone will have different preferences and needs, and if it’s possible I really recommend trying out a few different areas yourself before committing to anywhere long term. You’ll get such a different perspective on the behemoth city called Buenos Aires. Generally speaking, I have found that you get a little more for your money when you stay just over the border from a popular neighborhood like Belgrano or Palermo. And I really feel like parts of Villa Crespo, Colegiales, and Chacarita are every bit as cool as they are.
