Split or Zagreb: Which city in Croatia to choose?

Croatia is a country I have wanted to visit for a long time. However, I knew that it’s become more expensive and overcrowded in the most popular tourist areas in recent years. Since I try to adhere to a fairly strict budget and had just spent 3 months in Montenegro with its similar (if less grandiose) coastal landscapes and architecture, I decided to make my first trip to Croatia a short one, sampling two of the most well known cities. 

My rationale for choosing Split and Zagreb, specifically, came down to a few factors. Firstly, Split has Diocletian’s Palace, which was the number one place I wanted to visit in Croatia. And there are more Roman ruins close to the city, in the town of Solin. I’m a big fan of Roman history, so it seemed like an easy choice. Split would be less similar to the Montenegrin coast than Dubrovnik, I assumed, because it is a much larger city. And I thought it would be easier to explore local areas away from the center, as opposed to being just one big tourist trap.

For the second part of my trip, I chose Zagreb – partly because I knew it would be completely different from the coast, partly because it’s the capital, and also because it had direct flights to my next destination after Croatia. 

I took a bus from Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina to Split – approximately 4 hours, with a good chunk of that along the magnificent Dalmatian coastline. It does look very similar to Montenegro, for obvious reasons, until you reach Split, which is far bigger and more developed than Montenegro’s coastal towns. 

Split: Coastal living, Roman ruins, and spectacular views

The historical center of Split, where Diocletian’s Palace is located, is quite small. In front of the palace is the Splitska Riva, the waterfront with the harbor to the east, with a lovely long promenade.To the west, a string of beaches and the Marjan Hill area which provides much needed green space and the best views of the city. The rest of Split and its outskirts feels like a sea of Communist-era highrise apartment blocks and Brutalist business complexes. 

I had just a few days in Split, but in terms of seeing the main highlights, that can be plenty. You can spend a day in the center and around the palace, and another leisurely day hiking Marjan Hill and exploring some of the attractions around it – there’s a botanical garden, a small stone church from the 13th century, an old Jewish cemetery, and a mini zoo. With additional days, you can visit some of the museums like the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments, the Meštrović Gallery (dedicated to the Croatian sculptor), the Ethnographic Museum, or the Maritime Museum. And of course, if you are there in the warmer months, you can take advantage of the gorgeous beaches. I visited in April so it wasn’t quite beach weather – but on the plus side, it wasn’t overly crowded yet.

There are plentiful options for day trips, many of which can be done on your own by public transit: the islands of Hvar and Brac, the old towns of Trogir and Sibenic, Krka National Park, Solin for its extensive Roman ruins, Klis Fortress (a Game of Thrones filming location). This is definitely not an exhaustive list, just a small taste of what is on offer. If you love history and nature, and aren’t limited by your budget, Split could be a great slow travel base to explore. So what kind of budget are we talking about? You are probably looking at around 1500 Euros and up for a decent basic studio for a month in the summer season. I’ve checked Airbnb prices for the shoulder and off season, and prices vary widely. I’ve seen a couple decent looking options with good reviews under 900 Euros, but that seems to be the baseline price for anything in a decent location.

For the few days I was there, I opted for a hostel, and it was difficult to find one close to the center that wasn’t advertised as a “party hostel.” (I’m way past that season of life.) The best option I could find was about a 25 minute walk from the center. And that was fine…I enjoy walking. Split does have decent bus service, from what I could tell, and Uber is relatively inexpensive. But keep in mind that almost any decent budget accommodation is likely to be a bit of a trek from the center.

Zagreb: Eclectic architecture, quirky museums, and vibes

Zagreb feels almost like part of a different country than Split. Most of the older architecture is Austro-Hungarian. The most attractive area is probably Gornji Grad, or Upper Town, where you will find St. Mark’s Church with its famous rooftop, and a large concentration of charming historical buildings. While Zagreb lacks the “wow” factor of cities like Prague, Vienna, or Budapest, you can get a little taste of that storybook atmosphere here. 

Donji Grad, or Lower Town, feels a bit more of a mixture of old and new. It’s also flatter – something to keep in mind if you have mobility issues. There are some lovely buildings here as well such as the Croatian National Theatre, but they are more interspersed with modern glass buildings and gray Communist-era blocks. The main jewel of the Lower Town, I would say, is the system of green squares and plazas called Lenuci’s Horseshoe, named for the urban planner Milan Lenuci who designed it. I was visiting in the prime of springtime, and the squares were fully in bloom with gorgeous flowers, people resting and enjoying the perfect weather.

Zagreb isn’t the biggest or most beautiful capital city in Europe, but there’s something very pleasant about the vibe. It’s relaxed and slightly quirky, with a lot of unusual museums, a fantastic and huge park (Maksimir) with a zoo, multiple lakes, trails and activity spaces. There’s a great cafe culture, lots of specialty coffee shops, and bakeries to die for. It’s a place where I could definitely see myself staying longer just to enjoy the lifestyle.

One slight drawback to Zagreb is the fact that 5 years after the city suffered a serious earthquake, many sites and buildings are still closed for renovations. This includes the Zagreb Cathedral, St. Mark’s Church, and some museums such as the Museum of Arts and Crafts. There’s still plenty to do, of course, but if you are intending to visit any particular site, it’s best to check Google reviews to make sure it will be open before traveling there.

The other thing I found rather disappointing actually applies both to Zagreb and Split. They are both covered in a lot of ugly graffiti. A little bit of graffiti is no big deal in cities; it wouldn’t put me off visiting or anything. But the graffiti in Croatia is up there with the worst (in terms of quantity and lack of aesthetic appeal) I have seen. (Apparently most of it is related to football.)

Monthly rentals do not appear to be more affordable in Zagreb in general, although I am sure during the summer it would be easier to find something more budget friendly there than anywhere on the coast.

So which is the better option for you? It will certainly depend on what you’re looking for, and the time of year. I enjoyed them both in spring with basically perfect weather. Zagreb is also said to really sparkle during the Christmas season. Both can be great short city breaks, but I feel Split would be a bit boring for an extended stay unless you really get out and explore the surrounding area, including the islands. And it’s definitely much more touristy.